Monday, September 6, 2010

Some Anchorage Culinary Traditions

Compared to most modern cities, Anchorage is not very old. You’d think it wouldn’t have had the opportunity to develop many culinary traditions of its own. But thanks to an influx of outsiders that drastically altered its population during the second half of the twentieth century, culture has been imported. Two institutions serve as sparkling examples of how best to cook burgers and fried chicken both here in Alaska and wherever their founders originally called home. The two restaurants, The Lucky Wishbone and Arctic Roadrunners have seemingly changed little since their midcentury openings. The food in both places is a testament to simple, old school cooking that will never go out of style no matter the local. Their décor drips of local Alaskan color. Not the Alaska sold by its thriving tourist industry, but the Alaska of the working people who live their lives and stop in for a bite to eat at lunch or on the way home.

The Lucky Wishbone offers multiple options for a meal, though all but two are inconsequential. The place is known for its fried chicken and milkshakes. The buttermilk-battered chicken, pan fried to a golden brown would make any Southern grandma proud, as would the house made cornbread muffin that accompanies the meal. The meal is one of two nods to the past, the other the hand-dipped milkshakes that should not be skipped. The diet is already ruined so order a hot fudge shake to accompany your meal. Have a seat at the counter reserved for those willing to discuss golf (seriously) and pay homage to the Southern flyboy who a half a century ago put down roots in Alaska with the pride of his heritage in the kitchen and the pride of his service to his country covering his establishment’s walls.

There’s similar pride all over the walls of Arctic Roadrunner. Not in commemoration of the Local Burgerman, but to honor the lives of those who have frequented the restaurant since the mid 1960s. The décor is filled with photos and letters detailing the lives of Alaskans with nods to how long those lives have intersected with this local institution. The memorabilia is nice but would just be quaint if not for the memorable burgers. Served fast food style without being bland fast food, this place knows how to make simple, delicious. A diner can also make their sandwich more complicated with a condiment bar that is truly inspired.

It has taken inspiration to leave these two institutions alone. While the city has grown these two restaurants have stood the test of Anchorage time. They have tradition place like Applebees strain to replicate with faux-neighborhood authenticity. Locals already know it, but travelers need to seek these places out. Not because a tourist board sells them as authentic Alaska, but because authentic Alaskans have made these places their tradition.

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