Thursday, April 9, 2009

Tuna Tar Tar Tacos at Details Mini Bar & Lounge

Ginger is meant to cleanse the palate while enjoying sushi, not hide the taste of what you are eating. Herein lays the essence of what was wrong with the Tuna Tar Tar Tacos at Details Mini Bar & Lounge. Rumors of a last chance to try the heavily promoted take on the Mexican classic prompted a visit to Details for the Tuesday special, $5 Tacos during the half-priced drink Happy Hour. Tuna Tar Tar, avocado, pickled scallions and ginger surrounded by a slightly chewy, crisp shell had the air of conceptual brilliance. Unfortunately the genius found in the inspiration did not translate into the execution. In this case, less would have been more. The shells, though fried perfectly, were overly seasoned, providing the mouth with an unwelcome blast of sodium. Tainted by another heavy hand, the stuffing of the tacos had enough ginger to effectively cleanse the palate of almost all tuna taste. Good sushi is a celebration of bare visual aesthetics and taste, a good taco has roots in simple street food. The fusion tacos of Details, though busy, nail the visual test. But in losing their simplicity in an attempt to be uncommon, they miss the goal of simply being good food.

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